Bali: What Nobody Tells You — A Travel Hints 60 Reality Check
Bali is beautiful. Bali is fascinating. Bali has fabulous food. Bali is also chaotic, noisy, humid and, at times, completely exhausting.
And after my recent trip to Bali, I think it's only fair that I tell you about all of it.
This isn't one of those “Bali is paradise and everything is perfect” travel stories.
It isn't.
This is my experience of Seminyak and Canggu, along with the things I loved, the things that drove me slightly mad, and a few things I wish I'd known before I packed my suitcase.
And if you're a woman over 60 thinking about a Bali holiday, hopefully some of these tips will save you a little frustration — and possibly a few aching feet.
First lesson: Bali isn't necessarily a walking holiday
This was probably my biggest surprise. You look at Google Maps and think:
“That's only 800 metres away. We'll walk.”
No.
Well, you can walk. But whether you actually want to is another matter. In many parts of Seminyak and Canggu, there are few proper footpaths. Where there is a footpath, it can suddenly disappear, become incredibly narrow or require you to negotiate drains, parked scooters, uneven surfaces and whatever else has decided to occupy the pavement.
And then there is the traffic.
Walking beside a busy Bali road while scooters whizz past you on all sides isn't exactly the leisurely European stroll I had in mind.
For those of us who have reached the age where falling over is no longer considered an amusing travel anecdote, this is worth knowing.
Travel Hints 60 tip
When choosing your Bali accommodation, don't just look at how close it is to the restaurants or beach.
Check what the actual walk looks like.
“Only 10 minutes from everything” can mean very different things in Bali.
If you're travelling with dodgy knees, dodgy ankles, mobility issues — or simply don't fancy risking life and limb getting to dinner — factor this into your accommodation choice.
And then there is the traffic...
Oh, the traffic.
Bali traffic is an experience in itself.
A journey that looks like it should take 10 minutes can take considerably longer, particularly around Canggu and Seminyak.
There are cars, vans, delivery trucks and what seems like approximately 47 million scooters all heading in every possible direction.
And somehow it works. I have no idea how. But it does.
Scooters
You may surprise yourself with the scooters
You may start your Bali holiday thinking: “There is absolutely no way I'm getting on the back of a scooter.” And then, after sitting in Bali traffic for an hour to travel what looks like a few kilometres, you suddenly find yourself thinking: “Where's my helmet?” Because the reality is, scooters are often the only practical way to get anywhere quickly.
They weave through the traffic, get down the narrow streets and can save an enormous amount of time.
I'm not suggesting you suddenly become a scooter enthusiast if you've never been on one before. But if you're travelling with family or friends who are using scooters, you may find yourself deciding that getting on the back of one is actually the easiest option.
Just remember one very important thing.
Check your travel insurance first.
If you are going to ride as a passenger on a scooter, be very conscious of exactly what your travel insurance covers. Don't assume you're covered simply because you have comprehensive travel insurance.
Check the fine print around motorcycles and scooters, passenger cover, engine capacity, whether a helmet is required and whether the driver needs the appropriate licence.
It may not be the most exciting part of planning a holiday, but finding out what you're actually covered for before you climb onto the back of a scooter is considerably better than discovering it after an accident.
Download Grab before you go
One of the most useful things we used was Grab. Think of it as Bali's answer to Uber — you can arrange transport and also order food.
Download it before you leave Australia:
We used it constantly, including for restaurant deliveries. It was particularly useful for getting lunches delivered to the villa. We had numerous lunches from Bo & Bun delivered this way — which meant nobody had to get dressed, find a car, battle the traffic and go out just to find lunch. There are days when that is exactly the sort of luxury I appreciate.
And remember: if Grab says your destination is 15 minutes away, it may actually mean:
“15 minutes if Bali traffic decides to cooperate today.”
Bali food — now we're talking
One thing I can say without hesitation:
We ate extremely well.
Bali has fantastic food. There are beautiful restaurants, little local warungs, beach clubs and cafes, and we certainly made the most of them.
A few places we enjoyed
Santanera
A great choice if you're looking for somewhere a little special. It's stylish, lively and has a great atmosphere — definitely somewhere I'd put on the list for a night out.
Cafe del Mar
If you're looking for the Bali beach-club experience, this is it.
Pool, music, drinks, food and that whole “I'm in Bali and life is pretty good” feeling.
La Lucciola
A Bali institution and one of those places where the setting is a big part of the experience. Beautiful surroundings and a lovely place to slow down over a meal.
Nui da Mano
Another one we enjoyed and worth considering when you're planning your Canggu dining.
And then there was Bo & Bun, which became something of a delivery hero.
Using Grab to get lunches delivered meant we could enjoy great food without having to venture into the traffic every time someone announced:“I'm hungry.”
And then there are the treatments...
If you're anything like me, you may have noticed there are approximately a million places in Bali offering massages, facials, nails, hair, beauty treatments and every form of pampering known to mankind. The choice is endless.
And the prices can make you wonder why you don't live in Bali permanently.
Of everything I had done on this trip, my favourite treatment was a HydraFacial at Dermaster.
I absolutely loved it. If you're looking for a good-quality facial rather than simply the cheapest treatment you can find, I'd highly recommend Dermaster. It was one of my favourite discoveries of the trip.
And then there's the massage...
I also found an amazing massage therapist who comes directly to your villa.
I'm not going to put his details publicly here, but if you'd like them, contact me through Travel Hints 60 and I'll happily pass them on.
There is something particularly wonderful about finishing a day of sightseeing, having a massage in your villa and then not having to go anywhere afterwards. That's my kind of Bali nightlife.
Packing for Bali: less is definitely more
I made the mistake of thinking I needed clothes. You don't. Bali is hot, humid and wonderfully casual. Take lightweight clothing that breathes and dries quickly.
My Bali packing list
Lightweight dresses and tops
Anything loose and breathable is your friend.
Comfortable sandals
But make them sensible. This isn't the place for spending the day walking around in shoes that look fabulous but have your feet screaming by lunchtime.
One decent pair of walking shoes
Especially if you're doing countryside, volcano or temple excursions.
Swimsuit and cover-up
You'll probably use both.
Hat
Absolutely.
Sunscreen
Absolutely.
Light rain jacket or poncho
Tropical rain doesn't necessarily check your itinerary first.
Portable charger
Your phone will work overtime taking photographs, using maps, Grab, WhatsApp and Google Translate.
A secure crossbody bag
Keep valuables close and make it easy to move around.
And...
Insect repellent. Don't leave home without it.
This deserves its own heading. And I'm being particularly serious about this one.
We have only just returned from Bali and, at the time of writing, my granddaughter is currently in hospital with suspected dengue fever. I stress suspected because the doctors are still investigating and I don't want to imply a diagnosis that hasn't been confirmed. But it has certainly brought home just how real mosquito-borne illnesses are.
Please take this seriously.
Use a reputable insect repellent suitable for tropical travel and follow the instructions carefully. Don't assume that because you're staying in a beautiful villa or expensive hotel you won't get bitten. Mosquitoes aren't particularly impressed by your accommodation budget.
And if you become unwell during or after travelling to Bali — particularly with a fever or other symptoms that concern you — seek medical attention and make sure you mention your recent travel to Bali.
I'm not saying this to frighten anyone off visiting. I'm saying it because I'd rather you knew before you went than learnt the hard way afterwards.
Get out of Canggu and Seminyak
This is probably my biggest recommendation.
Get out into the countryside.
The Bali you see around Seminyak and Canggu is only one version of Bali.
Once you leave the tourist areas, things change.
Rice fields.
Small villages.
Temples.
Farmers working the land.
Local ceremonies.
Traditional houses.
And everyday Balinese life happening around you.
This was the Bali I found particularly fascinating. You can sit in a restaurant in Canggu drinking an expensive cocktail and feel like you could be anywhere in the world.
Then half an hour later you're driving through rice fields with locals going about their daily lives. That's the Bali I wanted to see.
Mount Batur, sunrise and the Black Volcano — all in one adventure
One of the highlights of our trip was a combined 4WD tour taking us to Mount Batur for sunrise and into the black volcanic landscape. And yes, it involved getting up at a ridiculous hour. When that alarm goes off in the middle of the night, there is a brief period where you seriously question your holiday decisions. But once you're out there and the sun begins to rise over the volcanic landscape, you realise why you got up.
The 4WD then took us through the dramatic black lava landscape around the volcano.
It was completely different from the Bali we had experienced around Canggu and Seminyak. And I loved that. It was an adventure, but without requiring me to climb a mountain.
Travel Hints 60 tip
Take something warm. I know. Bali. Hot. Tropical. Why would you need a jacket?
Because standing around before sunrise at Mount Batur is not the same as sitting beside your villa pool in Canggu. You have been warned. And wear proper shoes.
Your feet will thank you.
Bali for women over 60: my honest verdict
Would I go back?
Yes.
Would I do it exactly the same way?
Probably not.
I'd plan around the traffic.
I'd choose accommodation based on accessibility rather than simply how gorgeous the pool looks on Instagram.
I'd accept that walking everywhere isn't really an option in some areas.
I'd use Grab.
I'd pack less.
I'd take proper walking shoes.
I'd carry insect repellent everywhere.
I'd make sure I had plenty of downtime.
And I'd definitely build in some time outside the main tourist areas.
Bali isn't perfect — and that's okay.
It can be chaotic.
It can be frustrating.
The traffic can test your patience.
The lack of footpaths can make a simple walk surprisingly difficult.
But then you eat something fabulous, wander into a beautiful temple, drive through a rice field, watch the sun rise over a volcano or meet someone who gives you a glimpse into everyday Balinese life...
And you remember why you came.
Bali isn't just about the beautiful villas, beach clubs and Instagram sunsets.
It's a fascinating, complicated, colourful island. For me, the trick is to experience both sides. Enjoy the restaurants and beach clubs. Have the facial. Get the massage. Eat lunch by the pool. But then get in a 4WD and head into the countryside. See the rice fields. See the temples. See how people actually live. Because that's when Bali becomes more than just a holiday destination.
And finally...
Take the insect repellent.
Seriously.
My Travel Hints 60 Bali checklist
Before you go:
Download Grab
Pack good-quality insect repellent
Take sunscreen and a hat
Pack comfortable, sensible footwear
Take a portable charger
Don't overpack
Check the walking situation around your accommodation
Allow extra time for traffic
Don't assume you can walk everywhere
Plan at least one day away from the tourist areas
Consider a Mount Batur sunrise + Black Volcano 4WD experience https://gyg.me/wMAaa8JV
Visit rice fields, villages and temples
Try the local food
Book yourself a treatment — you're on holiday!
And don't be afraid to have lunch delivered when the thought of getting back into Bali traffic is simply too much.
Bali isn't necessarily easy.
But it is certainly memorable.
And isn't that what travel is supposed to be about?
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